Hengifoss > Seyðisfjörður > Viking Cafe and Guesthouse

We enjoyed a peaceful breakfast at Lake Hotel Egilsstaðir, seated by the window with a serene view of the beautiful trees. The cozy atmosphere and stunning scenery made for a perfect, relaxing start to the day.

As we continued the journey, the landscape transformed once again. After days of driving through flat lava fields and rugged mountains, we were now surrounded by lush greenery and trees painted in warm autumn hues. The vibrant colors on both sides of the road added a fresh, picturesque charm, making it feel as though we were discovering an entirely new side of Iceland.

Standing at 128 meters, Hengifoss is Iceland third-highest waterfall, located in a dramatic gorge in the East. What sets it apart from other waterfalls is its distinctive red clay and black basalt layers, which create a stunning backdrop for the cascading water. These striking red layers are remnants of ancient volcanic activity, forming a unique contrast rarely seen in other Icelandic waterfalls.

The 2.2km uphill hike to Hengifoss begins on the left side of the trail, following a clockwise route. It starts with a flight of stairs before leading into a moderately challenging ascent with an elevation gain of approximately 350m. Due to the uneven terrain, hiking shoes are recommended for better grip and comfort. Along the way, hikers pass Litlanesfoss, a breathtaking waterfall framed by towering hexagonal basalt columns. This smaller yet equally impressive cascade adds to the beauty of the journey, making the hike even more rewarding. Several benches are placed along the trail, offering perfect spots to rest and soak in the scenic views. At the top viewpoint, piles of rocks mark the end of the trail. For safety reasons, it is crucial to stay on the designated path, as falling rocks pose a potential hazard. As an added reward, toward the end of the hike, we were greeted by trees in warm autumn hues and the sight of wildflowers scattered along the path. With good weather on our side, the hike was truly satisfying and delightful. Witnessing Hengifoss in all its glory, with its majestic cascade and unique red-layered basalt cliffs, was an unforgettable experience.

Our next stop was Seyðisfjörður, a picturesque little town in the Eastfjords.

The journey there, however, turned out to be one of the most nerve wracking moments of our trip. As we wound our way up the mountain road, the weather changed rapidly, from sunny to cloudy to near zero visibility due to snowfall. The road, now covered in ice and snow, became increasingly treacherous. Then, for a few terrifying seconds, we lost control of the car while going downhill. Total silence filled the car as our hearts nearly jumped out of our chests. Thankfully, we managed to regain control and stay on the road, continuing our descent slowly and steadily until we finally reached the town. As soon as we arrived, we made a pit stop at a car park, taking a moment to calm our nerves. Even now, that experience remains fresh in my mind, a stark reminder of how unpredictable Icelandic roads can be.

With the drizzling rain and dramatic drive dampening our mood for sightseeing, we decided to find a restaurant for lunch. We stumbled upon a cozy buffet-style eatery with chicken as the main dish, our first taste of chicken in Iceland, after days of eating beef, lamb, and fish. Interestingly, the place was filled with locals, all of whom seemed to know each other, making us the only outsiders. The warm meal was comforting after the tense drive, and by the time we finished, we felt much better.

True to Iceland unpredictable weather, the drizzle soon gave way, allowing us to explore the town. We walked along the iconic Rainbow Street, which leads to the famous blue church, a landmark that makes Seyðisfjörður one of Iceland most photogenic towns. Interestingly, this rainbow street art was the first of its kind in Iceland, adding a unique charm to the town colorful surroundings. We then took a leisurely stroll along the small lake, soaking in the scenic views of the town and the surrounding fjord. Despite the dramatic incident, Seyðisfjörður charm and beauty made the visit worthwhile.

With the earlier scare still fresh in our minds, we had no choice but to drive back the same route, as it is the only road in and out of Seyðisfjörður. This time, we proceeded with extra caution, fully aware of the icy conditions and the steep mountain pass ahead. The drive felt tense, with every turn serving as a reminder of how unpredictable Icelandic roads could be in winter. Upon reaching Egilsstaðir town, we made a short rest stop to unwind from the stressful journey. Along the way, we saw a car that had gone off the road, with an ambulance and safety vehicle arriving at the very spot where we had briefly lost control earlier. It was a sobering sight, and we felt incredibly grateful to have made it back safe and sound. Before continuing our journey, we grabbed a classic Icelandic hot dog bun, a quick and satisfying snack to refuel before heading toward our next destination, the iconic Stokksnes, a 3.5hours drive ahead.

Yet another breathtaking drive, this stretch from East to South Iceland offered jaw dropping views of towering, majestic fjords. The dramatic landscapes, with sheer cliffs plunging into the sea, made every turn a sight to behold. Along the way, we made a pit stop at Folaldafoss, a hidden gem of a waterfall, cascading beautifully down a rugged cliffside. It was a perfect spot to stretch our legs and take in the tranquility of nature, with the soothing sound of rushing water and the untouched Icelandic landscape surrounding us.

Continuing along the coastal road, we were lucky enough to spot a few seals swimming near the shore, delightful surprise that added to the magic of the journey. Iceland beauty never fails to impress, and this drive was yet another reminder of why it is one of the most scenic road trips in the world.

As we approached the southern coast, the wind picked up drastically, making it almost impossible to do any sightseeing. The biting cold and relentless gusts forced us to remain in the car for most of the drive.

We headed straight to the Viking Café and Guesthouse, hoping to take shelter from the extreme weather. After getting our room keys from the reception, the owner greeted us warmly and guided us to our room in a cute and funny manner. Just as we were about to step outside again, he suddenly paused, looked at us, and warned us about the wind. With a playful grin, he asked, “Are you ready to dash across?” We chuckled, after all, we had already felt the brutal wind upon arriving and knew how strong it was.

Given the conditions, it was not advisable to visit Stokksnes, as the fierce wind would have made the experience both uncomfortable and unsafe. Instead, we opted for a simple yet comforting meal at the café, enjoying the warmth indoors while listening to the howling wind outside and the relentless flapping of the flags.

Later at night, curiosity got the better of me, and I decided to step outside for a moment. But just a few steps from the door, I was immediately met with the force of the wind—so strong that even opening the door was a struggle. It was a night to remember, as we truly experienced the raw power of Iceland’s unpredictable weather.

Overnight at Viking Cafe and Guesthouse